The material within this document is an integral part of the home inspection report.
Information within this booklet has been compiled and designed to help provide basic information regarding monitoring your home and to provide some understanding of the inspection process regarding commonly found components and conditions within the typical North Texas residential property. This information is solely for the use of the home buyer.

Thank you for choosing Select Inspect. Your business and trust in our service is greatly appreciated.

Select Inspect performs home inspections to the standards of the American Society of Home Inspectors and to the standards of the Texas Real Estate Commission. Copies of these standards can be found at:

TREC Standards of Practice: http://www.trec.state.tx.us/pdf/rules/535.227_231.pdf

ASHI Standards of Practice and Code of Ethics: http://www.ashi.org/inspectors/standards/standards.asp

Very Important notification: This report attempts to provide information to you about discovered conditions of components at the building inspected. The inspection consists of a licensed inspector spending a limited amount of time in and around the building observing readily accessible areas for visible conditions. This cursory inspection intends to reduce your risk and is not designed to eliminate or assume your risk. Previous or future inspections, including remodeling activities, may discover additional findings this report did not. This inspection is cursory or general in nature and may not discover all conditions, be they in accessible or inaccessible areas. It is important to know that damage or conditions beyond what the inspector was able to find may exist. This service does not warrant or guarantee the property to be free of wood destroying insects or damage or that all problems have been found. This inspection service will not pay for the repair or treatment of undiscovered problems. Please read the report in its entirety, and call if you have questions.

General Statement

Thank you for using Select Inspect to conduct your Home Inspection. The purpose of the inspection is to provide a cursory observation of the readily accessible areas of the building. Opinions are made based upon what was seen at the time of inspection. Furniture, stored items and flooring are not moved for inspection purposes. It is important to understand that while the inspection attempts to reduce your risk it will not eliminate your risk. Although the inspector tries to be thorough, this cursory report does not represent all conditions, concerns, issues, problems, insect activity or damage to have been discovered or completely reported. Such expectation is simply beyond the scope of our service. Guarantees, warranties or protection against errors and omissions are not expressed or implied.

Read the report, it is important!

It is important that you read the report, the inspection agreement, and any addenda, before the property is purchased. If you have questions or are unclear regarding our findings, please feel free to call before you buy the property. Of course you may also call us with a question after you purchase the home.

Ask for the sellers’ disclosure notice

We recommend you ask for the sellers’ disclosure notice. The disclosure notice is important because it may address an issue our inspection does not discover. Do not withhold information from the inspector to see if he or she will “find it.” The more information we are provided, the better service we can provide. When you obtain a copy of the sellers disclosure form, you should request copies of all known WDI (termite) inspections, treatments and damage repairs. If differences exist between this report and other documents, please contact the inspector to discuss such prior to closing.

Past or future inspections

Past or future inspections may discover additional findings or render different opinions. If we were to inspect this property a second time a new finding or opinion might be discovered. Future changes or interpretations of the Texas Real Estate Commission and Structural Pest Control Board (SPCB) inspection Standards may cause conditions to be reported on a future inspection that are not included in this report.

General limitations

Unless specifically stated, the following is not determined: Toxicological or environmental conditions; the presence of plumbing leaks; Site drainage; Ventilation calculations; code conformance; the life expectancy of type of treatments. Annual wood destroying insect inspections are recommended as a preventative measure.

Guarantees and warranties

This inspection does not provide any warranty or guarantee regarding local code or that all conditions will be discovered or reported. The cursory nature of the inspection makes it impossible to make guarantees. The inspection is of readily accessible visible areas.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Underlined comments in the following pages relate primarily to the scope and limitations of this inspection. Non-underlined comments relate primarily to general information that Select Inspect considers as possibly helpful to our clients in monitoring and maintaining the home and many related components generally found present within a North Texas property.

I.A-B Foundation / Structure / Drainage:

SCOPE: The inspector is not an engineer. The inspector is looking for “signs” and conditions exhibiting foundation / structural movement and grading / drainage conditions that may be intrusive, promote potential moisture intrusion, or those that can cause other structural issues. The inspection cannot determine whether foundation repairs are needed; or prescribe any repairs; such determination requires examination by a structural engineer or other specialist licensed in their specific profession.

Crawl spaces, if present, are entered only when the inspector determines that he can safely enter and safely exit the crawl space. The inspector is not required to enter a crawl space with an access opening less than 18” X 24” or with an under floor space less than 18” in height (between the soil and framing). The inspector is not required to enter crawl space areas that contain: gas leaks, wet soils, electrical wires that are on the soil or obstructive to access, or areas that are known to or suspected to contain rodents or potentially dangerous or diseased animals. If the crawl space is inaccessible for any reason, it is recommended to have a specialist correct the condition causing inaccessibility, then have a structural specialist and or engineer examine the crawl space for any possible repair needs. When crawl spaces are accessible and entered, the inspector crawls general areas, and attempts to access all areas under plumbing, HVAC components, areas determined as suspicious from the inspection of the home interior, and accessible perimeter locations. Some crawl space areas will not be directly accessed, and some conditions may go undetermined.

If you have any concerns about the stability of the foundation / structure, you should hire a structural engineer or foundation specialist to examine the property. The cost of an engineer is insignificant compared to the value / price of the property. Some foundation companies provide this service at no cost. If repairs are not determined as necessary, this will at least provide a baseline for future observation.

Concrete hardens naturally, becoming stronger as it cures. This process can continue for months or years in some cases. Small cracks occasionally develop, and these are typically not a concern, when viewed alone. If you remove flooring, you will likely find some concrete cracks. Hairline cracks are typically not uncommon, though cracks 1/32” or larger can allow entry of termites and sometimes moisture. If you discover cracks at interior or exterior locations 3/16” or greater, or foundation cracks greater than 1/16” you should have a specialist examine the structure. If multiple cracks or movement indications are occurring in a certain area of the home, this may indicate excessive movement is occurring with the foundation and or structure. In north Texas, the majority of foundation problems are caused by poor drainage and / or poor moisture maintenance in the soils directly around the home.

Most areas in the north Dallas area have soils that contain montmorillonite clay. This clay is very expansive, and it often is the prime contributor to foundation issues. This clay is the most expansive clay ever tested in the world, and many of our homes are built upon it. In laboratory tests, pure forms of this clay have been found to force 3-15 tons of pressure per square foot, while expanding with moisture absorption. Most homes only weigh around 300-500 pounds per square foot, and it is common in this region for homes to move an inch or more per year. As the clay-based soils dry out, they contract and shrink; this too can be harmful to a foundation, as it may pull away from the home and not offer support against the slab or perimeter beam. Some areas of north Texas including Irving, Las Colinas, and Carrollton are known to have subsurface water tables (underground springs). Some neighborhoods are constantly at risk, and others are at greater risk during heavy rain seasons, as the underground water tables rise. This sub surface water is definitely a situation that you should be aware of if you live in these areas. If you are planning on purchasing a home in one of these areas, it would be prudent to have a geological survey done before closing.

If the soils around the home have too much or too little moisture, they will move. As a homeowner you can help limit and control undesirable foundation movements by maintaining consistent moisture around the foundation. Generally, the south and west sides of the home receive more sunlight and will often dry out faster than north and east sides. This can be affected by shade from large trees, foliage, nearby homes, and other factors.
SOIL MOISTURE: In the summer, you typically need to water more often than in winter. Generally, watering for ten-fifteen minutes offers around ½ inch of water; this will be affected by nearby foliage, slope of the lawn, and soil content. Monitor your sprinkler / watering settings and make adjustments to water until just before run-off occurs. Do not water in the heat of the day, in summer, as this will allow quick evaporation and the moisture will not soak in deep enough to be useful or cost efficient. Also, shallow watering often causes the roots of nearby trees to move up, toward the moist soils, and this can allow the roots to remain high enough that they may push into the foundation of the home. Deep, consistent moisture keeps the soils firm, but not expanding. Try not to let the soils dry out before each watering cycle; consistency is best. If the soils dry out, and spaces occur between the soil and the foundation, do not fill the space with water and do not put soaker hoses in the gap. This can often be more harmful than leaving them dry. If you use soaker hoses as primary or supplemental moisture source, it is best to place these about 12-18 inches away from the home. This will allow the moisture to absorb in the soil and slowly expand to support the foundation. If the soils are dry, be sure to re-moisten the soils gradually, over a few days or more, to avoid fast expansion and isolated water accumulation against the foundation.

GRADING: Soils should slope to drain water away from the home, and then to an acceptable off-site location. If negative sloping exists around the home, you may need to re-grade the areas, or install underground drains that are designed to direct water away from the foundation. For either of these conditions, you should consult an engineer or drainage specialist to examine the property and prescribe a permanent repair option. Opinions differ, and obtaining a second opinion may be prudent depending on the extent of the issue and your risk acceptance factors.

It is important to keep the grade level at least 4-6 inches below the bottom of brick / stone / cement-based siding. Soil should be at least 6-8 inches below wood, pressed-wood, hardboard, or wood-based siding / trim. Siding should be at least one inch minimum above concrete slabs at patio / porch areas. This would allow the edges of the foundation to be visible for inspection of termites and moisture intrusion conditions. High soil and low siding at foundation joints are conducive to moisture intrusion, rot, and termites. If soil levels are adjusted, be sure not to create poor drainage conditions.

Crawl spaces need to be kept dry. Prolonged moisture below the home is conducive to insects, rot, and fungus (mold). The soil in the crawl space should be at least 18 inches below the bottom of framing. It is prudent to examine the crawl space periodically and after heavy rains. You should look for wet soils or pooling water; if discovered, you should have a drainage specialist examine the property and prescribe repairs. The crawl space may become damp periodically during extended rainy periods, but should dry out within a few days after the rains subside. It is very important to keep a crawl space vented all year long (in this part of the country), to reduce potential for fungal growth. One square foot of venting per 150 square feet of crawl space, with vents included each direction- ten feet of each corner is the general standard. If constant crawl space moisture is an issue, there may be a need for a supplemental, mechanical drainage system under the home; an engineer or drainage specialist can offer specific information on this option. Specialty services including flood plain analysis, sub grade water table surveys, and microbiological tests are available from other companies that specialize in those fields. If you have concerns and or desire to alleviate all risk regarding these potential conditions, you should contract a specialist for full evaluation of the property regarding that concern.

FOLIAGE: Some plants are not recommended near a foundation. Large trees can push against or under the home. Red-Tip Photenias are not recommended near the home. Red-tip-photenias absorb large amounts of moisture and can affect the foundation in various ways. These large shrubs can remove moisture that the foundation needs for support. These shrubs often rot from the inside-out, due to the amount of moisture they take in. And don’t forget, termites and carpenter ants love wet / rotting wood. Cottonwood and willow trees also have aggressive roots and will use a lot of water. Ideally trees and large shrubs should be planted so that the drip line of the foliage will not be at or over the home at maturity. If you are concerned with location or condition of plants or trees (of any size) at the property, you should consult a professional landscaping arborist for options. Some engineers may also offer information regarding the potential structural impact of foliage around the home.

If the home has had or will have foundation repair, understand the following. Sub grade plumbing (water / gas) can be damaged during excessive foundation movement, and during foundation repairs. If the foundation is “repaired” and supply or waste pipes are damaged, the leakage and accumulation of moisture created below the home can cause serious foundation issues. If your home has had foundation repairs, it is recommended to have a special underground leakage test performed by a licensed plumbing or leak check company prior to closing. If the home is a candidate for foundation repairs, it is recommended to have a special underground leakage test performed by a licensed plumbing or leak check company very shortly after foundation repairs are made.

I.C-D Roof / Attic / Insulation:

SCOPE: The roof is examined by walking general areas when the slope and other conditions are deemed safe to do so in the inspector’s opinion. If the inspector does not feel safe accessing the roof, he will observe the surface with binoculars and or by placing a ladder at various eave locations. Some areas of the roof and attic will not be directly observed, due to lack of safe accessibility. Some roof and attic conditions may go un-noticed. The inspector is looking for obvious defects and or damage conditions that may allow moisture intrusion or significant deficiency issues that are suspected as ongoing or imminent. The inspector is required to report obvious visible evidence of prior roofing repairs. The inspection is not a hail inspection, and is not to be used for insurance underwriting. We do not determine insurability, and it is recommended in all cases to have your insurance provider examine the roof and accept the roof prior to closing without restriction, pending any repairs (minor or major) that they may require. Insulation is observed by looking at general areas in accessible locations of the attic(s). Some areas will not be directly accessible, and some conditions may be undiscovered and undetermined.

ROOF: Composition shingle roofing material wears out over time. This process is sped up with hail, high winds, and seasonal hot / cold changes. The average shingle sold as a 25 year material, generally can be expected to have a service life of only 10-15 years in ideal conditions. In north Texas, we generally have hail storms two to three times each year, and hail reduces the life expectancy of composition shingles. Tile, slate, and metal roofs generally are more durable, but these too may also be damaged by large hail, high winds, and falling branches.

You should check your roof after every heavy storm, and check periodically throughout the seasons. You should look for branches and other debris in the gutters and on the roof, and look for damaged, wind-blown, or missing shingles, gutters, and flashing. If you have metal roof vents, you can check for signs of hail damage from the attic. If you notice large or numerous dents in these vents, it is an indication that hail has hit and possibly damaged your roof. You could call a roofer, but typically after a large hail storm, you will have at least a few roofers coming to you. Select Inspect also offers roof inspections for a reasonable fee. In either case, you should consider having your insurance check the roof after a hail or high wind storm, to determine if repairs are needed, and if these will be covered by your policy.

If you have a gas furnace, check to see that the rain cap(s) is not blown off. The furnace can be damaged by rain entering the unit from the flue; repairs can be very expensive. After storms with heavy winds, check your furnace and water heater flues in the attic, to make sure they have not become disconnected. This should also be checked after roof repairs are made, as often times, roofers will inadvertently bump and displace the flues. Disconnected flues can allow poisonous carbon monoxide to accumulate in mechanical closets, attic, and possibly in the home.

Trees should be kept trimmed far enough away that they cannot touch and damage the home in winds or when weighed down with ice / snow. Trees also provide a potential access to your home for carpenter ants, squirrels, and other rodents.

ATTIC: Ventilation provisions frequently do not meet current / modern standards. Poor venting can cause condensation and moisture accumulation at insulation, sheathing, and at the tops of ceiling material. Poor ventilation can allow heat build-ups and thus, premature delamination or aging of the roof surface. If the home has radiant barrier (foil-backed) sheathing, it is imperative to ensure proper ventilation. If the attic has this sheathing and is poorly vented, your energy bills could actually increase, and the roof may be prematurely aged from overheating. Proper attic ventilation can extend the life of your roof, and attic mounted HVAC systems. Even if your HVAC system is not in the attic, ducting often is. Poor ventilation can cause loss of energy by heat transfer through the ducting. Powered roof vents save more energy than they cost in electricity usage, and they cost about the same as turbine vents.

In the northern US, homes typically have basements, many people use these for storage. In the southern US, most everyone uses the attic for storage. Try not to store heavy items or to many items in your attic. This can cause deflection in the framing, and it makes it difficult to maneuver around for home inspectors and service people. Also, remember to be cautious when taking things in or out of the attic; get a helper whenever possible. If you must store items in the attic, fasten some sturdy plywood down over the ceiling joists to create an attic floor. This will make it safer to walk on, and will help keep the framing tight to resist deflection. Try to organize the storage area for easy maneuverability and access to and around your stored items and for access to areas of the attic that may contain HVAC or other serviceable components. If you must store belongings in your attic, be smart, and be safe.

INSULATION: Insulation works through small air voids within the insulating material. As the home ages, insulation often compacts, and looses its efficiency. Try not to store belongings between the joists, as this can crush the insulation, and often will cause ceiling drywall to deflect or crack under the weight. For energy efficiency, you might consider adding insulation or reinsulating once each 15-20 years under normal conditions. Proper insulation and ventilation can save over 50% on utility bills.

I.E.-F Walls (interior and exterior) / Ceilings / Floors:

SCOPE: Walls, ceilings and floors are observed in a cursory manner, and not on an inch by inch basis. This inspection does not look for or report cosmetic issues. The inspector is only looking for signs of foundation movement, moisture intrusion, structural movement, and possibly wood destroying insect evidence. If the home is occupied or furnished, the inspector does not move storage or personal belongings to access or observe any area, unless the inspector feels confident that such is absolutely necessary, and completely safe to do so without taking a chance of causing any damage to any portion of the homeowner’s property, and only when the safety of all persons is guaranteed.

Try to be in the habit of just looking around your home. If you notice cracks or movement, moisture stains, or something else unusual, take a closer look and call a professional if needed. Keep your sprinklers adjusted so they do not directly spray the exterior walls, doors, and windows. Poorly adjusted irrigation can cause rot, mortar erosion, and may even cause foundation movement. Some brands of "hard-board" type siding and trim have been under litigation for premature failure, rot, and fungal issues. These pressed board type materials are more prone to moisture / rot damage, and should be kept very well caulked and painted to reduce risk. Modern cementitious materials are more durable, less problematic, and more expensive, though they do require some routine maintenance.

I.G-H Windows & Doors:

SCOPE: Windows and doors are operated in a random, cursory manner. Furniture and or storage may obstruct some windows and doors, and these will not be tested. Conditions may go undiscovered or undetermined. Draperies, blinds, shutters, or other window / door treatments are not inspected, but may be operated in attempts to inspect windows and or doors. These items are considered cosmetic and are beyond the scope of this inspection.

Periodically check your doors and windows for moisture intrusion. Most moisture that we discover at lower edges of drywall or window sills is from condensation. This occurs when the outside temperature is cool and the home interior is warm; the metal or vinyl frame windows can sweat like a glass of ice water, leaving moisture droplets at the interior wall or sill. There is not a cure for this as far as I know, and the only thing you can do is to be aware of this condition and keep the moisture wiped up so that the condensation does not damage the interior materials. Keep your windows and door frames well caulked at the exterior perimeters to prevent insect and moisture penetration. For safety reasons, you should ensure that all locking mechanisms are operable. Solar screens can help with energy efficiency and shading, though they can be problematic if you need to remove them in case of a fire. If possible, do not use solar screens on bedroom windows that children will be using, unless the screens are modified to be easily removed from the interior. Periodically teach children how to open windows and screens for emergency escape.

I.I Fireplace:

SCOPE: Fireplaces, gas fired heating appliances, and solid fuel heating units are inspected only by observing accessible components. The inspector is looking for component deficiencies and conditions that could be unsafe or are otherwise obviously deficient / defective. Some chimney / chase / flue components will be obstructed by design, and conditions within inaccessible areas remain undetermined.

If you use the fireplace, be sure to check periodically for creosote accumulation, cracked or damaged brick, masonry, or panel components. These conditions may pose a fire hazard, and should be examined and corrected by a fireplace specialist. Fireplace “cleaning logs” are sold at many hardware and discount stores. These logs are generally $15-$25, and are not always as useful as you may think. It typically takes 5 to 8 of these logs to do a good cleaning on a moderately to very dirty fireplace flue. For the same cost or slightly more (less in some cases), you can hire a professional chimney sweep. These logs are marketed to cause the creosote and chimney build-up to loosen and fall into the fireplace; what a mess.

Fireplaces with gas assist pipes or gas logs should be checked to make sure the gas is off when not in use. It is a current requirement to have the damper modified so that it remains permanently open at least one inch if gas logs are in place. I think it is a good idea to do this also with gas assist fireplaces. The reason is to allow gas to escape up through the chimney, rather than entering the home, in the event that the gas valve is not shut off fully. Maintain your fireplace to avoid fire and carbon monoxide issues. If concerns or suspect installation methods or damaged / inoperable components are found, you should have a fireplace specialist examine the fireplace(s) and repair any issues.

II. Electrical:

SCOPE: Electrical components are observed in accessible areas, by examining readily accessible components for damage, improper conditions and deficiencies. Conditions in inaccessible locations remain undetermined. This includes but is not limited to: conduit, raceways, attics, crawl space, wall and ceiling, behind fixtures / switches, underground, and inaccessible exterior overhead components. Panel box covers are only removed when the inspector feels such can be done while remaining perfectly safe. Breakers and panel components are visually inspected and are not touched or tripped, with the exception of AFCI and GFCI breakers. If a breaker is already tripped upon arrival, the inspector may try to determine the cause. If the cause is not determined, or the occupant is not available or has no knowledge of the condition, the inspector will not reset the breaker, as there may be an unsafe / undetermined condition present.

The inspector is not required to move storage, furnishings, or other items to access any part of the home. Outlets are inspected in a cursory random manner (generally at least one per room when accessible). Lights and switches are operated when found, and circuits are not traced. If a light is inoperable, the inspector does not determine if the cause is a defective bulb, improper or unsafe wiring, or a deficient or unsafe fixture or switch. It is recommended to ensure that all lights, switches, breakers, and other electrical components are safe and operating as intended prior to purchasing the home.

Any and all electrical concerns should be evaluated and repaired by a master electrician. If an electrician is contracted to work in the home, it is recommended that the electrician examine all electrical components / systems at the property and repair all discovered deficiencies prior to closing. It is recommended to keep all of the panel box breakers permanently labeled for the specific area(s) that each breaker serves. If you smell or see electrical burning around the home or at the panel box, try to quickly identify the source and shut power off to that system if you feel completely safe doing so. Call an electrician immediately, and call 911 if you feel in danger or if fire is seen.

If a switch, light fixture, or outlet is discovered as inoperable, there is a chance of electrical fire hazard condition, and the device(s) should be examined by a licensed professional.

III. Heat & Air Systems (HVAC):

SCOPE: HVAC systems are operated in normal modes only (using the thermostat(s)). When outdoor temperature is above 80 degrees, heat pumps, if present, will not be operated in heat pump mode. When outdoor temperature is below 60 degrees, air-conditioner systems will not be operated. Operation of these systems in those temperature conditions can cause permanent, expensive damage to HVAC components. The inspector does not attach gauges or testing equipment to any component, does not remove panels, covers, or other access plates, unless removal & replacement can be safely / easily performed by the inspector.

If a component is shut down upon arrival, the inspector may try to determine the cause. If the cause is not determined, or the occupant is not available or has no knowledge of the condition, the inspector will not start or attempt to start the system, as there may be an unsafe / undetermined condition present. Conditions of components in inaccessible locations remain undetermined. The inspection does not include digital programming features, coolant pressure or leakage checks, or adequacy of airflow. Humidifiers, motorized dampers, heat reclaimers, air purifiers, and wood burning stoves are not inspected. If one or more HVAC components are noted in need of repair, you should have a licensed HVAC company examine the entire system(s) and repair all discovered deficiencies before closing.

Annual maintenance by an HVAC specialist is recommended to keep all components operating efficiently and safely. Gas furnaces should be examined and cleaned every fall, by a licensed HVAC specialist. You should have the evaporator cleaned at least once every 3-5 years. Change your filter regularly, as dictated by the type of filter(s) in use and by the manufacturer’s guidelines. Cleaning your return air (intake) plenums at least once per year is recommended, especially if persons in your home have respiratory, allergy, or air quality conditions with their health. Rust and corrosion are commonly found at air-conditioner coils and gas furnace components. Corrosion can significantly reduce life of the system. Periodic servicing can keep your Heat & Air systems working and in prime condition, and may reduce the extent of damage caused by corrosion.

Do not allow foliage, fencing, or storage to accumulate directly around the exterior condenser(s); this restricts airflow, and can overwork the equipment. High soil around the base of an air-conditioner condenser can cause corrosion and deterioration of the components. Condensers should ideally be raised at least four inches above the soil. Many inspectors believe that a “leaning” or “out of level” condenser always needs repair. Technically, many manufacturers recommend that the condenser lean 5-10 degrees away from the home. Excessive out of level conditions (visibly >10 degrees) should be examined and repaired by an HVAC specialist, if such repair is deemed necessary.

Check the visible sections of your air ducting for crimps, damage, and disconnected joints periodically. You should ask your HVAC technician to do this, during routine service calls.

IV. Plumbing:

SCOPE: The inspector is not required to determine if the home has public (city) or private (well / septic) water supply and disposal. This information should be obtained through the seller disclosure, and verified through the city or county of jurisdiction prior to closing. If a well and or septic system is present (in use or abandoned) at the property, you should have a specialist examine the systems and surrounding property for any repair needs. The inspector is not required to operate laundry connections, wells, or septic systems. Water fixtures are operated in normal mode only, and examination for leakage conditions is limited to accessible components and areas only. Conditions below ground, or in inaccessible attic, wall, ceiling, or crawl space areas remain undetermined. The inspector does not determine adequacy or flow rate at any fixture or system.

If a component (water heater or shut-off valve or similar) is shut down upon arrival, the inspector may try to determine the cause. If the cause is not determined, or the occupant is not available or has no knowledge of the condition, the inspector will not start or attempt to start the system, as there may be an unsafe / undetermined condition present. The presence or absence of bacteria or corrosion within inaccessible piping, fixture, and appliance components is undetermined.

Periodically run your fixtures and look below cabinets and at adjacent walls / ceilings / floors for leakage conditions. If a leak occurs, the sooner it is discovered, the less expensive it usually is to repair. Even a small leak can create enormous problems over a period of time (i.e.: rot, mold, structural damage, insurance claims / insurance cancellation, wood destroying insects, etc.).

V. Appliances:

SCOPE: Appliances, if present and if inspected, are operated in normal modes only. Self-cleaning functions and inaccessible components are not inspected. Check with your home warranty company for verification of appliance coverage prior to closing.

Usually, the first signs of trouble with appliances are corrosion, vibrations, and unusual noise during operation. You will typically notice vibration and unusual noises early on, and by having the system(s) serviced, you may be able to repair the component and extend the life of the appliance.

Watch your dishwasher in drain mode periodically; check below the unit and at the drain connection (typically at the upper side of the disposal). If leakage is found, correct the condition as soon as possible. Check the gaskets and seals on ovens and microwaves. Try to keep ranges, ovens, and related filters, vents, and fans clean for optimum performance and to get the most life out of your systems.

VI.A Sprinkler systems:

SCOPE: Lawn irrigation systems are operated in normal manual mode only. Computer controls, rain sensors, program settings, and adequacy are not inspected. Presence of an anti-siphon device is inspected; effectiveness and sizing of anti-siphon or backflow prevention is not inspected and undetermined. Hoses, exterior faucet timers, and sprinklers designed to attach to hoses are not within the scope of this inspection and are not operated or inspected.

OPERATION: Sprinklers should be monitored for damaged heads, improper spray pattern, and clogged tips. The settings should be changed seasonally to aid in providing a consistent moisture level in the soil around the home. Excessive or not enough watering can be harmful to the foundation. Too much water may cause rot, moisture intrusion, or mortar erosion, and is conducive to insects including termites.

SOIL MOISTURE & Your Sprinkler Settings: In the summer, you typically need to water more often than in winter. Generally, watering for ten-fifteen minutes offers around ½ inch of water; this will be affected by nearby foliage, slope of the lawn, and soil content. Monitor your sprinkler / watering settings and make adjustments to water until just before run-off occurs. Do not water in the heat of the day, in summer, as this will allow quick evaporation and the moisture will not soak in deep enough to be useful or cost efficient. Also, shallow watering often causes the roots of nearby trees to move up, toward the moist soils, and this can allow the roots to remain high enough that they may push into the foundation of the home. Deep, consistent moisture keeps the soils firm, but not expanding. Try not to let the soils dry out before each watering cycle; consistency is best. If the soils dry out, and spaces occur between the soil and the foundation, do not fill the space with water and do not put soaker hoses in the gap. This can often be more harmful than leaving them dry. If you use soaker hoses as primary or supplemental moisture source, it is best to place these about 12-18 inches away from the home. This will allow the moisture to absorb in the soil and slowly expand to support the foundation. If the soils are dry, be sure to re-moisten the soils gradually, over a few days or more, to avoid fast expansion and isolated water accumulation against the foundation.

VI.B Swimming Pools / Hot Tubs / Spas:

SCOPE: It is beyond the scope of the inspection to dismantle or open any component or lines. Presence of past or present evidence of sub grade leaks is not inspected and undetermined. The inspector does not uncover any lines or concealed components, does not fill pools, spas or hot tubs, or determine the presence of sub surface water tables. Computer controls, chlorinators, chemical dispensers, ionization devices, or other ancillary equipment are beyond the scope of the inspection and are not inspected. In all cases, fiberglass and vinyl lined pools should be inspected by a pool specialist, familiar with that style of construction.

Pools, although enjoyable, can be unsafe when due caution is not taken. Monitor the pool for loose or damaged tiles, coping, decks, and other conditions that may be unsafe. Test the GFCI for the pool and or spa underwater light(s) at least once per month during swimming season. I personally recommend that you test this every time before you get in the pool / spa. To test the GFCI: turn on the underwater light(s), then push the “test” button on the GFCI outlet / breaker. The light(s) should go out, then should come back on, after you “reset” the GFCI. If the device will not trip, or the light(s) remains on, DO NOT USE The POOL, until an electrician repairs the condition. Electrocution and Death may occur if a ground fault occurs, and the GFCI fails to activate. Any non-electrical pool related repairs should be made by a pool specialist, after full evaluation of the pool and equipment.

VI.E Gas Lines & Gas Components:

SCOPE: The inspector is not required to operate any main, branch, or shut-off valve. If a valve is off, the inspector will assume that a safety condition exists, and the system will be noted in need of repair and not inspected. The gas system, if present is not inspected for leakage, unless arranged for by the client for an appropriate additional service fee. This may also be done by a licensed plumber. Inaccessible components are not inspected; conditions remain undetermined.

If gas fueled appliances are present in the home, you are recommended to install carbon monoxide detectors per manufacturer and CPSC guidelines. If you smell gas in the home, quickly try to determine the source and shut it off. If you cannot find the source within a few minutes, or if occupants feel light headed or do not feel safe, get out of the home immediately and call 911. Carbon monoxide (CO) poisoning can result from damaged or improperly vented gas furnaces and water heaters. Symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning include: weakness, light-headedness, shortness of breath, mild nausea. If you notice these symptoms when you are at home, and you feel better when you leave, you should have your gas appliances checked immediately by a professional. Long-term mild to moderate exposure can be fatal. High levels of CO exposure can be fatal in minutes.

OTHER: Wood Destroying Insects (WDI):

SCOPE: If a wood destroying insect inspection or comments regarding such are included in a separate report purchased for this property, the following applies:
The wood destroying insect inspection is limited to the accessible conditions and areas noted only during the time the inspector is at the property, on the specific day and time of the inspection. Various insects wood destroying and other, are more active during variant times and seasons. The inspector will attempt to identify conducive conditions that can be more attractive to wood destroying insects. No home is “cleared” or guaranteed to be free from evidence of prior activity or free from infestation.

Select Inspect and NTTS do not guarantee that all prior or current wood destroying insect evidence, damage, or activity will be discovered. Remodeling and future modification or repairs may open areas that currently contain hidden / inaccessible activity or damage. Extent of damage is undetermined. This inspection is not comprehensive, and there are areas such as crawl spaces, wall voids, attic, and other inaccessible locations that may contain undiscovered evidence or damage.

Be advised, every building is likely to experience wood destroying insect activity and chemical treatments. Poor drainage, rot, dense foliage, and foundation joints and cracks are conducive to termites. Dense foliage, poor drainage, and foliage touching or very close to the home are conducive to carpenter ants. Typically, wood destroying insects are not found at a property until a home is 8-10 years old, though I have found termites in / on homes less than 2 years and less than 6 years old. Maintaining foliage, drainage, and correcting rot and wood to ground contact conditions will reduce your risk, though will not eliminate risk of wood destroying insects. It is recommended that homes 2 years and older be inspected annually by a pest control company. You should expect wood destroying insects to exist at and or infest some portion of any property at an undetermined time present or in the future.

WDI: Pesticide contamination

This inspection does not inspect for pesticide or chemical contamination in any form or fashion. Unless stated, the report does not determine if chemicals have been applied in the past. Any mention of past chemical usage is gratuitous and in incomplete. Chlordane has not been used since the late 1980’s and in June of 2000 the popular chemical chlorpyrifos (Dursban) was removed from most market applications. If you are concerned about pesticides you should contact an appropriate specialist. Perhaps the Texas Department of Health can provide assistance in locating such companies.

WDI: Obstructions

The report will not identify all obstructed areas. Some obstructions are: materials over concrete cracks; Cracked corners on concrete slabs; Mortar dressed slab edges; Joints in multilevel foundations; Wing walls and planters adjacent the building; Wood floors under carpet or furnishing; Behind tarpaper or other materials covering piers; Inside masonry block or stacked brick; Behind vinyl or aluminum siding; concrete foundations with an elevated wood floor system; Behind upholstered walls; Any undecked insulated attic with less than 5 feet of headroom or unsafe areas; For safety reasons, wood roof surfaces are usually not walked upon. If the inspector makes an extra effort to walk on a wood roof it is understood that a cursory observation of large areas is done. Shingle by shingle inspection for drywood termites, wood bores or other conditions is not performed.; Any crawlspace with less than 2 feet of clearance Any extra effort to enter an obstructed crawlspace is beyond the scope of the service and all areas will not be seen; Air ducts in crawlspaces or attics; Condition of any ducts in concrete is undetermined; The inspector does not touch, probe or sound every square foot of wood construction components. Inspection is cursory and visually done from many feet away in most circumstances. Bear in mind that it is possible for damaged wood to exist and not exhibit evidence of performance failure Although the inspector might move a small item as a gratuitous added service, it should be understood that moving furniture, stored items and obstructions is beyond the scope to the inspection and conditions behind such remain undetermined.

WDI: Damage

Reporting and assessing the amount of WDI damage is not required by the Texas Structural Pest Control Board and unless specified is beyond the scope of this inspection. Be advised that it is entirely possible for damage to remain undetected and unreported. Any damage reported should be considered to be a partial representation of the discovery and further inspections may be required to fully assess scope of damage. Destructive examinations might be required to fully assess scope of damage. Destructive examinations might be required to fully assess damages. This inspection intends to reduce risk but will not eliminate risk. The inspector does not sound, push or probe every square inch of a building. We do not use specialized inspection techniques such as dogs, audio equipment of fiber optic bore scopes. It is possible for damage to be overlooked, patched up or painted over. In the words of the Structural Pest Control Board: “if visible evidence of active or previous infestation of listed wood destroying insects is reported, it should be assumed that some degree of damage is present.” Some areas where damage can remain undiscovered are: siding materials; studs; joists; drywall; plumbing areas; showers; baseboards; rafters; posts; attics and crawlspace areas and or containing air ducts; wood floor systems.

WDI: Conducive conditions

Conducive conditions are those situations that tend to promote or assist insect activity. Many of the mandatory conducive condition comments on the Texas form represent common construction or landscaping practices. Some of the conducive conditions on the Texas form rely on the subjective opinion of the inspector conducting the inspection. Immediate correction or modification of the conditions may not always be required or justified and there are many situations where an ongoing inspection or monitoring plan can be implemented One such example is ivy growing on the side of a home. While ivy is conducive to increased insect activity it is also an occasionally found landscaping practice. Although the Texas report will consider the condition conducive it does not mean you are required to remove the ivy. You may find a periodic inspection program that utilizes low impact pest control methods satisfactory in your situation. Be advised, lenders are accustomed to rejecting funding on the basis of a condition being identified as conducive. This practice of wholesale loan rejection is now obsolete and may not be justified in all situations. If this report identifies situations as conducive we recommend you show your lender the report in advance of closing so that any objections can be addressed. If we are required to re-inspect corrected conditions or reproduce report paper work a service charge is applicable.

WDI: Subterranean termites

Subterranean termites are very common in the north Texas region. They are so common that our opinion is it’s a matter of “when” termites will infest a building and not “if”. We find that in general buildings less than 3 years old have less risk. We do occasionally find termites on younger buildings; however it is the exception rather than the rule. Buildings that are older than 3 years seem to be in the highest risk category. Our experience leads us to believe that most buildings will have some sort of treatment done before it is 10 years old. If we report this home as not showing visible signs of termite infestation you should understand that it is simply a matter of time before they show up and a corrective action will be needed.

WDI: Treating for subterranean termites

Treatment for subterranean termites has traditionally focused on creating a chemical barrier by placing pesticides on the soil around and sometimes under a home. Previous chemicals like chlordane were very effective but were removed from the market place due to misapplications and suspected dangers. We do not test for chemical contamination and, if you are interested in such, you should consult an expert on the matter. It is our opinion that reinfestation is a matter of when and not if, on the good side new chemicals have been developed and are working well.

WDI: Drywood and Formosan termites

Drywood termites are uncommon in this region but have been reported in isolated circumstances. Formosan termites have been found in all major DFW area counties and their spread is expected to increase. It seems that cold winters and drier conditions discourage significant colony growth at this time. The inspector does not inspect rail road ties or bark for the insects. When isolated infestations are discovered, they are usually related to import infested construction or landscaping materials. Treatments for these insects vary and are much more expensive and difficult than that for subterranean termites. It is recommended you ask the seller to disclose specifically if the home has had drywood or Formosan termite species prior to closing. For further information concerning activity of Formosan insects contact the Texas Structural Pest Control Board and Texas A&M University as it is my understanding they may be monitoring this subject. If active termites are found you should have the type identified before treatment is done. It is very easy to confuse subterranean and Formosan termites.

WDI: Wood boring beetles

There are many types of wood boring beetles. It is common to find occasional prior beetle activity in wood construction materials such as joists and wood trim. In most cases, we do not see damage occurring. In almost all cases the infestation is inactive due to wood processing techniques such as kiln drying. Occasionally active beetles’ found. Wood boring beetle damage occurs slowly so there is no need for panic if the beetles are detected. Tenting and fumigating an entire building may not be justified in all cases. Most infestations can be successfully treated via local treatments or wood removal. Powder post beetles are usually found in woods such as ash paneling and trim. Unfortunately, beetles can infest wood without being readily detectable. They are usually imported to the site as concealed larvae in wood materials. Post inspection emergence is infrequent but nonetheless a possibility.

WDI: Carpenter ants

Carpenter ant detection is dependent on foraging activities and seasonal factors. In warmer weather the ants are more active at night. Carpenter ants do not eat wood; instead they excavate galleries in which they nest. Many times the ants will nest in wall voids or insulation. Preferred nesting areas tend to be moist and perhaps associated with a wood rot condition. Damage is slow to occur in most cases and radical emergency treatment actions are usually not justified. The ants are common in densely foliated areas and keeping foliage trimmed away from buildings will reduce risk of infestation. Various treatment methods exist. If your home is in an area with moisture and copious vegetation you should expect periodic encounters with the insects.

WDI: Insect specie identification

Although the inspector has general knowledge of the biology, habits, and identification of insects such as Wood Bores, Drywood termites and Formosan termites, the inspector should not be considered an identification expert due to the infrequency in which some of these insects are encountered. The inspector will attempt to be accurate. No warranty or guarantee is made regarding correct insect specie identification. Precise entomological identification services are available by your request for an additional fee.

Environmental, Lead, Mold, & Air Quality:

Environmental testing or commentary is beyond the scope of this inspection. Inspection of lead and lead-based paint is beyond the scope of this inspection.

The inspector is not asbestos certified, and will not positively identify asbestos materials. The inspector may denote materials that in his opinion are similar to or may possibly be asbestos-based or asbestos-inclusive.

Lead-based paint was legally used in housing until 1978. Approximately 64 million dwellings contain some lead-based paint, according to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). If your home was built before 1979, you should receive a packet by the EPA and information in the seller’s disclosure regarding potential for lead-based paint at the property. If the home is in this category, refer to your agent and or the EPA website (http://www.epa.gov/docs/lead/) for more information.

MOLD: The inspector may comment on moisture intrusion and visible fungal growth found in the home, though we do not test for mold. Regarding visible fungus (mold, mildew, etc.): we do not determine mold type, determine if it is active or dormant, or quantity (PPM). Mold requires moisture to grow; areas that mold are commonly found include, but are not limited to: air ducts, air registers, and plenums; inner and outer air-conditioner components; below or behind sinks, flooring, and cabinets in bathrooms and kitchens; under flooring; wall voids; behind plumbing components; crawl spaces; poorly ventilated attics; synthetic stucco walls; "hard-board" type exterior walls, water heater areas, and fenestrations (windows & doors). Select Inspect did not take fungus or air samples from the home. If you are concerned about health related issues, we recommend that you consult an indoor air quality firm prior to purchasing the property for evaluation and options for cleaning. Researching and evaluating various indoor air quality firms and their methods for remediation would be prudent, if you plan to pursue those measures. Select Inspect does not determine past flooding, moisture intrusion, or all leakage histories, and cannot determine if the home will flood or have moisture intrusion or leakage issues in the future. Refer to the seller's disclosure for possible information regarding moisture intrusion and leakage history of components and conditions at the property. Some insurance companies will not insure homes with prior flooding or water / mold damage claims or history. If the history of the home is suspect, you should contact your insurance provider to ensure the home and components will be insurable without exception, prior to closing.

If you have concerns about asbestos, radon, lead, mold or other environmental issues at the property, you should contact a specialist. If possible, you should choose a contractor registered and certified by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). Websites related to these concerns are: http://www.epa.gov/iaq/ia-intro.html; and indoor air quality links from the Texas Department of Health (TDH) can be found at: http://www.tdh.state.tx.us/beh/iaq/iaqlinks.htm.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION:

If you have specific areas of concern regarding any component or condition, or if you desire to alleviate all questions of liability, there are specialized inspections from tradesmen in each specific field that may offer warrantees and life expectancy quotes.
Many home warranty companies often deny claims based on preexisting conditions, excessive corrosion, systems and components that were / are “not to code”, “not to manufacturer specifications”, or near / at / past their expected lifespan. To reduce the risk of being turned down on a claim, it is recommended that you have a representative from your home warranty company examine the home and components to verify they will offer coverage without exclusion on all components you want covered in the policy. Coverage is usually very limited, and you should read and understand their fine print, before choosing a provider.

This report is non-transferable and is not to be used for insurance or warranty underwriting or reference by third parties without written consent from Select Inspect.

Squirrels and other rodents can cause damage to exterior walls, and eaves, as well as electrical wires. If rodents get into the attic or crawl space, they may nest, and could cause large amounts of damage. Rats have teeth that grow an inch or more each year; rats must chew / gnaw almost constantly to wear down their teeth and keep them at a usable length. Rats can chew through lead, cinder block, wood, concrete, electrical conduit and wires. This damage can cause electrical safety issues or other damage; and don’t forget, rats are filthy and many rodents often carry diseases.

If you ask for a name of a service provider or contractor, and the inspector provides such, you should in all cases investigate these persons / companies, and at least two others chosen by you, prior to conclusion of any agreements or exchanges of monies between you and any of those persons / companies for services.